Ella was one of the Sri Lankan destinations I was most looking forward to. And this small hill station, nestled amidst rolling tea hills, rushing waterfalls, and misty mountaintops, does not disappoint. A tranquil escape from the bustling streets of Kandy or Colombo and a refreshing retreat from the sun-drenched beaches of the South, Ella is the perfect haven of serenity to add to your itinerary. And the journey to Ella is just as captivating and generous in its beauty as the town itself. The train journey to Ella is rated among the world’s most scenic train rides. Passing through lush forests, charming bridges carrying the old-world charm, cascading rapids and falls, and rolling tea and cinnamon farms, the ride offers a picture-perfect view at every turn.
Planning a trip to Ella from Kandy was effortless. I boarded the train at 7 o’clock. With a content smile on face, I embarked on an eight-hour journey that slowly chucked through hills and charming, little towns before reaching Ella. The thought of spending eight hours on a train is a bit daunting. But let me assure you—like all good things, this ride is best savored slowly. With every passing mile, the breathtaking scenery made time feel irrelevant, turning the journey itself into an experience as enchanting as the destination.
The train journey
The train journey from Kandy to Ella truly embodies the saying, “the real pleasure is in the journey, not the destination”. However, it may not always be as magical as travel blogs make it seem. For one, be prepared for packed compartments. Sri Lanka’s limited railway network means these routes bear the brunt of commuter and tourist traffic. But don’t let that discourage you! This journey is rated among the most scenic in the world, and for good reason. To escape the crowds, consider booking a first-class ticket for a more comfortable experience.
the scenery is nothing short of breathtaking. The old blue diesel train winds its way through rolling green hills, misty tea plantations, and charming villages, on its way. The experience lingers in your memory long after the journey ends.
The train’s immense popularity has turned it into an incredibly touristy experience. Despite the picturesque landscapes, the journey is not authentically “local” as Instagram or blogs suggest. The train is often packed with tourists eager to capture the perfect shot. This makes the experience feel more like a spectacle than a tranquil escape you had imagined. But if you get a good seat for yourself, every turn the train takes is worth capturing. I was left in a completely click-frenzy mode while in the train.
A few vendors wandering the train with snacks or wade, make this 8 hour long journey easy for you. There’s always something interesting, mostly deep-fried snacks to pick from these vendors! You will even get a tea or chai vendor wandering around too.
After an eight-hour arduous journey, the train reached the cute station of Ella town. Almost the entire train disembarked here. It was at that moment that I realized that it may be good to break the journey into two parts – and take a stop at Nuwara Eliya and then continue from there. The journey from Nuwara Eliya onward is a sight to behold. Te train meandering through the tea gardens, like the toy trains in Nilgiri and Darjeeling, looks like an image from story books.
The colonial charm of Nine Arches bridge
The first thing I did after checking in my hostel in Ella town was to set on a walk to the Nine Arches bridge to catch the sight of a train passing through this historic bridge. There are two ways you can visit the bridge – the easier way is to take a tuk-tuk (around 500 Sri Lankan rupee) from the town. This takes around 15 minutes. And then there’s the interesting way to reach your destination – you take a walk along the railway track. Yes, you read it quite right. You have to walk along the railway track. A walk of approximately 5 kilometers and you will be at this historic point. Another Sri Lankan ‘must do’ ticked off your itinerary.
The path through the Ella town, as I learnt, is equally rewarding. Perhaps one should do both to make a proper judgement. This architectural marvel from the British colonial era, is tucked amidst verdant tea plantations and dense forests. The settings give it a postcard perfect vibe. And then watching the train chucking slowly across the bridge, is a picture-perfect scene. There are several small cafés nearby where you can enjoy a refreshing cup of tea or fresh coconut water. For better experience, take a short five-minute climb to a hillside café that offers one of the most stunning views of the bridge.
Hiking on the Little Adam’s peak
My heart melted as I saw the mountain views and breathed in some crisp, fresh air. One needs to take a plunge further and embark on an hour or two-long hike to Little Adam’s Peak in the morning to catch the first rays of the sun. When you reach the summit, you realize the climb was so worth for the views it offers. The breathtaking mountain views, and the vast expanse of rolling hills stretching into the horizon, bathed in a soft morning glow, will leave an indelible imprint on your heart. From up there, you get a 360-degree view of the small traveler village that Ella is, nestled among the greens like a lovely dot of tranquillity.
You can also hike to Ella rock which is about a 4-hour challenging round trip hike from Ella town depending on where you start and how fast you walk. It can be done with a guide or on your own but make sure you get detailed directions from someone you trust before setting out. The views from the top on a clear day are spectacular.
Chasing the waterfalls
In Ella you can go on a chase to waterfalls. My tuk-tuk driver mentioned at least five waterfalls in the area, meaning one could easily spend an entire day hopping from one to another. I opted for a quick trip and managed to visit two. The first one was called the secret waterfall, probably secret because there were no signboards for the waterfall. The waterfall is quite easy to miss if you don’t have someone to guide you to it. The second was the famous Ravana Waterfall, one of the tallest and most well-known in Ella. This one stood proudly beside the road, with its cascading waters visible from afar.
The Bohemian vibes of the town – The town’s unique mix of backpackers, nature lovers, and adventure seekers, has assured that the café scene of Ella wears a blend of laid-back charm and vibrant energy. The cafes are cozy havens where travelers unwind after hikes, share stories, and soak in the breathtaking views. Ella also offers among the best party scenes in Sri Lanka. Try on some smoothie bowls, avocado toasts, and wood-fired pizzas. Cafes like ‘The Chill Café’ offer a superior palate of authentic Sri Lankan cuisine. But more important, be here for live music performances, bonfire nights, and an overall relaxed vibe.
Booking a train ride: You can book a train ticket from Kandy to Ella from the SriLankan Railways website. From the ticket counter in the railway station you can book the third class and second class tickets.
