It’s hard to pinpoint a single reason why I fell in love with Kandy. When I was planning my SriLanka itinerary, a friend advised me to skip it entirely. “It’s just another city—prettier, perhaps, but still just a city,” she said. Her words left me torn as I booked my train tickets. Why stop at Kandy when I could head straight to Nuwara Eliya or Ella from Colombo?
But the moment I arrived in Kandy, I knew why it deserved a place on my itinerary. Kandy isn’t just another city; it’s an experience. It’s not just that it’s cooler or hillier, or that the jungle’s so close that – at night – leopards stealthily wander into town—sipping from hotel pools and occasionally preying on unsuspecting dogs. Nor is it about the gorgeous ornamental Kandy Lake.
The true essence of Kandy lies in its remarkable story of resilience as a once-great kingdom. And then there’s the architecture – palaces, royal parks, a handsome bathing house (for the king’s queens), and a vast complex of temples built five centuries ago to house Buddha’s tooth (which also has its story). Kandy embodies a deep pride in its history and culture, an unyielding spirit of survival, and an unwavering vision for a grand future.
Colombo to Kandy is a three-hour train journey through verdant fields and rolling mountains. It may also be your introduction to the hill country of SriLanka. Kandy’s railway station is a shade from a fantasy Enid Blyton age. Walk a little from the station, and you’d be able to feel the Kandyan spirit in the air. The kingdom of Kandy was the last Sinhalese kingdom to fall, long after the rest of the island had fallen to the Portuguese and Dutch. This indomitable spirit, and the unique culture still lives on in the city’s unique music, dance and architecture. The city has a somewhat aristocratic air, with its graceful old Kandyan and colonial buildings, scenic highland setting and pleasantly temperate climate.
In search of Buddha’s tooth
My day began with a quest to uncover the mystery of the sacred Tooth Relic and the fascinating tales surrounding it. Kandy was the island’s last royal kingdom, following the historic reigns of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa in the north. With the arrival of Dutch and Portuguese invaders, the capital was relocated to Kandy, and the revered Tooth Relic found its sanctuary within the royal temple on the palace grounds. According to local tradition, possession of this sacred relic signifies the divine right to rule the nation. Over centuries, the Tooth Relic has not only been a symbol of spiritual devotion but also a cornerstone in SriLanka’s political and governance landscape.
The Tooth Relic’s journey is as fascinating as its significance. Legend says that after Buddha’s cremation, his remains were distributed among kingdoms. These relics were enshrined in stupas and became objects of deep reverence. The tooth relic was said to be claimed by the kingdom of Kalinga in India. But when the Kalinga kingdom was under attack, the Kalinga king decided to send the tooth relic to his friend, the king of Anuradhapura in SriLanka, to keep it safe. The tooth was smuggled into Sri Lanka by Princess Hemamali, the Kalinga king’s daughter and she hid it in her hair.
Over centuries, the relic was moved across capitals—from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa—to protect it during times of conflict. Finally, it found its permanent home in the sacred shrine of Kandy, symbolizing an enduring legacy of faith and sovereignty.
Visit the temple and the museums surrounding it early to beat the crowd. Be sure to explore the nearby elephant sanctuary within the same compound.
The serenity around the Kandy Lake
Right next to the Tooth relic is the Kandy Lake. The lake is said to be built by ruling king, Wickrama Rajasinghe over paddy fields for his pleasure. According to legend, the king dreamt of a “sea of milk” with a pot of Amrit—the heavenly nectar of immortality—at its center, inspired by the Hindu myth of Samudra Manthan. Believing it to be divine guidance, he created this artificial lake, designing its wave-like boundary to reflect the vision.
Pay homage to the guardian of the city
Bahiravokanda Vihara Buddha Statue wasn’t on my itinerary. But the fact is that from any corner of the city you cannot miss this impressively magnanimous statue of Buddha. But the real steal is when you reach the top of the hillock where the temple is. From this vantage point, the hill offers breathtaking panoramic views of the city, with the Buddha appearing as a divine guardian watching over and blessing Kandy.
Explore the tea museums
Kandy is a sweet spot in SriLanka’s tea journey. The tea museums in Kandy offer a fascinating journey through the history of tea production, showcasing vintage machinery, artifacts, and the evolution of Ceylon tea. The tea museum experience blends history, culture, and flavor in perfect harmony. And you can always do a tea tasting here in the museum, enjoying your sip while looking at the lush plantations rolling down the hills.
A short distance from Kandy’s bustling center lies the Royal Botanical Garden in Peradeniya, SriLanka’s largest and most stunning botanical garden. This sprawling oasis is a favorite among locals and visitors alike. It’s the perfect spot to spend a leisurely afternoon soaking in nature’s beauty.
Kandy is a great city to walk around and explore. And one thing that you should not miss out in Kandy are the local bakeries. Stop by a traditional bakery to savor fresh pastries, coconut buns, and seeni sambol rolls—perfect for a quick snack. Don’t miss the famous Sri Lankan short eats, like fish buns and patties, which are packed with flavor. For a sweeter indulgence, try a slice of rich butter cake or creamy eclairs.
Exploring Lanka from Kandy: Kandy serves as the perfect gateway to explore SriLanka’s spiritual north and the enchanting tea country to the south. Well-connected to all parts of the island, it’s an ideal base to plan your journey, whether you’re seeking cultural treasures or scenic landscapes.
