Hikkaduwa has been a permanent feature in the Sri Lankan itinerary for decades now. Hikkaduwa beach boasts a history that dates to 1960s when it first emerged as a sought-after destination for surfers drawn by its stunning waves and pristine shores. What was once a quiet fishing village has since transformed into a lively coastal town, where a vibrant kilometer-long stretch of guesthouses, beach-side cafés, and quirky shops now hugs the shoreline. The golden sands, swaying palms, and crystal-clear waters continue to draw travelers looking for the perfect blend of relaxation and adventure. As I explored, I realized Hikkaduwa is way beyond its beaches and turtles. There is some raw experience that awaits here.
Swimming with turtles
But what truly sets Hikkaduwa apart is its incredible sea turtles. Few places in Sri Lanka offer such an effortless encounter with these gentle marine creatures. Hikkaduwa is arguably the best beach in the country to spot sea turtles—no boat rides, no guided tours, no waiting. Just head to the aptly named Turtle Beach, and you’ll often find them gliding gracefully through the shallow waters, sometimes just a few steps from the shore. You can watch them from the beach or slip into the water for a respectful swim alongside them. The experience of being so close to them, brings you closer to nature, and in such magical way.
It was this magical experience that really made Hikkaduwa etch itself onto my travel itinerary—the rare thrill of swimming with turtles. I had always imagined that moment as a once-in-a-lifetime encounter, something that would define my trip to Sri Lanka’s southern coast. But as I started exploring Hikkaduwa, I realized that the town had so much more to offer.
Hikkaduwa is a vibrant tapestry of experiences. It’s a laid-back beach village infused with history, and horrid memories of the 2006 tsunami. Its bustling local markets, and lively beach shacks, invite an eclectic mix of backpackers, honeymooners, and surfers from around the world. The seafood is another revelation: fresh catches of the day prepared with authentic Sri Lankan spices that make your taste buds dance. With every moment spent here, I realized how much this village, which lived in the shadows of bigger towns like Galle, Wellinga, and Mirissa, had so much more to offer to travelers.
Exploring Hikkaduwa’s coral reefs
Hikkaduwa is famous for its coral reefs. You can easily bring your own mask and snorkel from home or rent high-quality gear for a small fee right on the beach from friendly local vendors. As you glide above the coral gardens, you’ll spot an array of tropical fish, sea urchins, and even the occasional sea turtle gracefully navigating the currents. Do this early morning when the waters are calm, visibility is at its peak, and the marine creatures are most active. Even if you’re not a great swimmer, explore these shallow waters on foot, to be dazzled by an underwater wonderland.
Off to the Ambalagoda mask workshop
Hire a tuk-tuk, for this one-hour journey to the nearby town of Ambalagoda to explore a shade of the cultural and spiritual lineage of Sri Lanka.
Sri Lankan folklore is rich with tales of demons, each with its own unique character and power. Among the most notorious is Reeri Yakseya, known for his cruelty and malevolent influence. And the most powerful of them all is Maha Sona — a demon said to possess immense supernatural strength. Local legends say that every demon is associated with a specific disorder or misfortune, and people who fall ill or suffer unexplained troubles, believed to be cursed by one of these entities.
In rural areas where belief in these spirits remains strong, traditional exorcism rituals are performed to rid the afflicted of the demon’s influence. These rituals are long, elaborate affairs steeped in symbolism and ancient practices. Masked dancers don intricately carved wooden masks representing the various demons, each painted in bright colours. Several offerings are made to the demon to please it. It is believed that if the demon is satisfied with the rituals and offerings, it will free the victim of their curse.
The Ambalangoda Mask Workshop and Museum portrays this rich cultural history that spans all of the indigenous tribes of Sri Lanka and the plethora of demons they have created. You can buy these masks from the workshop – the masks are said to protective spells against ill omens.
Shopping masks in Hikkaduwa
But Amabalagoda isn’t the only place to buy these masks. There are many shops that line the main road in Hikkaduwa that excel in these masks. Some of these are owned by artists who have been making masks for generations. These shops not just give you a chance to buy these masks, but also to engage in conversation with the artists and learn more about the Lankan mask culture.
A little detour to the river tours
A little detour from Ambalagoda will take you to these eclectic river tours, which cut through the mangroves. This tour offers a completely different perspective of Sri Lanka’s coastal beauty. And as you tool deeper in the Maduganda River, you realize that the river tours aren’t just a peaceful retreat from the beach crowds; but are an immersive experience into a different world. Keep your binoculars and camera ready, there’s always something from crocodiles, a colony of bats, fish eagles, monitor lizards, or countless species of birds to capture. This unbound beauty will surely leave you in a click frenzy mode.
Feel the shock at the tsunami museum
On December 26, 2004, an earthquake struck the Indian Ocean. Sri Lanka was also hit by the resulting tsunami. Within the next two weeks of the tsunami, the death toll had crossed 30,000 deaths. Just outside of Hikkaduwa the holiday train “Queen of the Sea” was engulfed by the wave, killing at least 1,700 passengers on that single train. A giant Buddha statue stands at the spot of the accident now. Nothing tells the story of that horrid past the way the Hikkaduwa Tsunami Museum does. The streams of photographs from the relief work hit you hard.
The museum takes you on a sordid journey – a tale of pain and horror, people had gone through. The photographs make you blink and wonder the stories behind the plain statistics those people were reduced to. The museum starts with pictures of the beach with the water receded, and random tourists going deep in the sea to explore the pools that had formed. Then you see the first glimpses of the incoming tsunami. And then are bodies, uncountable – the melancholy wrapped in their faces hitting you hard. For a moment you become a part of their lives – their joys and laughter turned into horror within minutes.
And then comes the story of the holiday train “Queen of the Sea”. It’s a little disturbing to look at the disaster and mounds of bodies the tsunami left behind. In those moments, in the museum you become a part of history. You come closer to the equation between life and death – and the uncertainty of the moment. If you think deep, the museum touches you way deeper that you can imagine.
I spent two unforgettable days in Hikkaduwa, and each felt like a journey of its own. This vibrant coastal town offers so much more than just its famous beaches. I felt exhilarated as I soaked up the sun on the golden sands, savored fresh local dishes at beachside shacks, and even swam alongside sea turtles. A visit to the Tsunami Museum turned into an unexpectedly moving experience, bringing me closer to the tragedy that left deep scars on the community. While I was disappointed by the over-commercialized turtle hatchery and the moonstone mines, the serene river ride through the mangroves stood out as an authentic adventure, as I had wished. I hadn’t imagined Hikkaduwa could serve up such a diverse mix of experiences—nature, history, local flavors, and a touch of adventure—all in one charming package.
Read more about Sri Lankan beach experiences from Galle and Mirissa.
